Pattern | Types of Pattern Used in Cutting Section

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Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for a style of garment or apparel. Actually pattern is a template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. It is one of the most important parts of garment manufacturing industry. Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, sensitivity for design interpretation and a practical understanding of garment construction. Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production.

Methods of Pattern Making: A pattern is a guide for cutting the fabric which can be sewn together to form a garment. The different types of pattern making within the apparel industry are:

1. Sloper / Block pattern making  

• Flat Pattern Technique
• Modelling

2. Computerised pattern making

Now, Details are given below:

Sloper/block pattern making: It is a basic garment pattern with no seam allowance from which other similar patterns are designed. It is also referred as basic pattern or foundation pattern to develop and design new patterns for garments. All basic sloper/block is based either by standard measurements or by custom measurements. There are two methods for basic block pattern making which are mostly applicable in women’s wear.

Flat pattern technique: Involves a variety of straight edges, curves, measurements, and calculations to draw a draft on paper. It is a two-dimensional method that manipulates an existing foundation pattern ‘sloper’ or a ‘block’. The draft is cut out of muslin fabric having comfort ease to fit a dummy body or an individual. The desired changes are marked on the paper draft. 

Making patterns following flat pattern making method is easy since patterns are based on templates. The hard part is in making the templates either manually or by using pattern making software. They look simple but are hard to make as they require many human body measurements and lots of test fitting. They should be perfect since other patterns are developed based on them. Use of certain geometric rules will derive different patterns from the basic block, and they would fit perfectly like the blocks. Once the blocks are made, the rest is significantly easier given that there is no need to measure the figure anymore, or even test fit new patterns on it.
In flat method, the pattern maker traces the basic blocks and carry out the necessary manipulation along with essential sewing and other allowances to each component. A small mark on the outside edge of the seam allowance on the pattern is marked to ensure alignment and matching during sewing known as ‘notches’. All these exercises produces ‘working pattern’. Once test fit is done, the working pattern becomes ‘production pattern’

Modelling: Often called ‘draping on the stand’ is a pattern cutting method which involves muslin fabric for fitting of block garment generally on a designated dummy body of appropriate size. The designers/pattern makers manipulate, mark and adjust the three-dimensional mock-up (creating many variations in style) until they satisfy on the shape and fitness. Mock-up or muslin is also referred as ‘toile’. Toile is usually not neatly finished or hemmed like the actual garment would be, and they are made from a translucent cotton or linen fabric so that the design can be tested and perfected. Each component is transferred onto pattern paper and the required allowances added. Modelling method is more time consuming than other two-dimensional methods.

Computerised pattern making: Computer technology has integrated into every aspect of our work-lives. Applications of CAD/CAM made their first appearance in the cutting room in the 1970s. In recent years, however, computers became economical; pattern making and grading software still remain an expensive investment. Creating a flat pattern using CAD is the easiest and most advanced of all design techniques once one become familiar with the system one is working with. Many new design entrepreneurs use a computer to relieve some of the work required to develop a new style. Digitisation of manual pattern and using for production is also done in the industry. The pattern maker work by using a life-sized, sensitized table and a stylus attached to a computer. Designers use many geometric designs that are based on various shapes and lines to create patterns. Changes can be made easily on the screen if necessary and correct patterns get ready for further operation like grading and marker making. Computers are useful for making patterns that are repetitive. Some pattern makers draft on hard paper and then use the scanner to convert the pattern into a computerized format. Then they make the changes on the pattern on-screen. 

The major technological features are ‘pattern design systems’ and ‘pattern generation systems’. Pattern design systems speed up the process of pattern making and they improve accuracy. An experienced production pattern maker that is efficient in the use of the pattern design systems drafts the block on the computer efficiently and construct garment patterns by putting in place all the block patterns in current use. Pattern generation system creates the pattern from the pattern components automatically via pattern design system. 

Many companies use CAD systems to make patterns. CAD can be used for many fashion design processes such as creating design sketches, apparel designing, pattern making and grading, draping, virtual imaging, garment specification sheets, storyboards, prints for fabrics and technical drawings. Overall CAD saves time during the design process, helps to create new design ideas, shows every design components, develops a prototype and helps to amend the new design before producing. There are different CAD software systems; however, the best come from Lectra Systems, Gerber Technologies, Tukatech, and Optitex.