Stitch | Types of Stitch | Stitch used in Garments Industry

Stitch: Loop or loops of one or more threads when bounds with each other, either by inter-looping or interlacing or intralooping or a combination of hose, when sewing fabric each unit of such conflagration is called stitch.

Stitch Classification/Stitch Types: There are 70 types of stitches. Among them 18 to 20 types of stitches are widely used in garments industries. Stitches are divided into 6 classes. They are:

• Stitch class-100 (Single Needle Chain Stitch)
• Stitch class-200 (Hand Stitch)
• Stitch class-300 (Lock Stitch)
• Stitch class-400 (Multi thread Chain Stitch)
• Stitch class-500 (Over edge Stitch)
• Stitch class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch)

Now, Details are given below:

Stitch class-100 (Single Needle Chain Stitch): This class of stitches are formed by intralooping. One or more needle thread is used for stitch formation. A thread is passed through the fabric by the needle and loop is prepared which is bound with the previous loop made by the same needle. In this way row of stitch is made. This type of stitch includes stitch type-101, 103 etc. Used in lap and flap positioning, temporary joining, positioning, basting, hemming, blind stitching, button holing, button attaching purposes.  

Stitch class-200 (Hand Stitch): This class of stitch looks like domestic hand stitch. It is made by special type of needle and sewing machine, which is called pick stitch sewing machine. Needle thread is passed from one side to another side in the fabric and makes a sewn line. Used in lapel of jacket, coat and expensive clothes. 

Stitch class-300 (Lock Stitch): Two or more sets of threads are used in this class of stitch. One set of thread is called needle thread and another set is called bobbin thread. Here one set of threads are interlaced with another set of thread and make bond. Fine yarn is preferable for this type of stitching.  General purposes are sewing, joining different components during garments making, top stitching etc.

Extensively used in sewing and fabric attachment as pocket, collar, cuff, facing etc. Also used in top stitching, button holing, button attaching, blind stitching etc.

Stitch class-400 (Multi Thread Chain Stitch): Stitches are formed by two or more set of threads: One set of thread is called needle thread and another set is called looper thread. The loop of one set thread is passed through the fabric and bound with another set of thread by interlacing and inter-looping. Used for long sewing in the jeans and trousers. Also this type of stitch is used with over edge stitch, for joining lace, braid, elastic with the garments. 

Stitch class-500 (Over Edge Stitch): This type of stitch is made by one or more sets of thread and is bound by minimum loops of one set of thread by rotating the fabric edge. As a result thread cannot be drawing off from the fabric edge.Before sewing the fabric edge is cleaned by the knife of the machine which is placed at front of the needle. Sometime it is called over locking machine, but it is mainly over edge stitch. Width of stitch may vary from 3 to 5 mm. Used for decoration of fabric ends. It is also used in combination with lock stitch and chain stitch. For light fabric stitch type-512 is used. For coarse fabric such as denim, jeans, cord stitch type-514 is used. 

Stitch Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch): Stitches under 600 class are formed by three sets of threads. First set of thread is called needle thread, second set of thread is called top cover thread and third set of thread is called bottom cover thread. Used for attaching tape, lace, braid, elastic to knit fabric. Used for making knitted undergarments. It is also used for decorative purpose.