Sewing: Joining of fabric by the use of needle and thread is called sewing. Sewing section is the biggest section in a garments industry. It is done to produce seam. Sewing department is the heart of a manufacturing unit. Cut components are assembled in sewing department in assembly line.
In sewing some elements are basic needed. They are divided in two types. Here the below..
Needle: A sewing needle is a long slender tool with a pointed tip. The needle must be able to penetrate the material being sewn, by pushing the yarns aside according to the application, without damaging it. Needle used for hand sewing since about 1800BC and made from bone, wood and stone. In 1800AD, Balthasar Krems of Germany was the first to use a needle with the eye near the point and he had developed it. Iron needles were introduced during the 15th century for hand sewing. The large scale production of sewing machines started about 1840. Curved needle is only used for blind stitching. Modern needles are manufactured from high carbon steel wire, nickel or gold plated for corrosion resistance. Today the still needle is commonly used.
Basic Functions:
- To form a passage in the material through which the needle thread can wholly pass.
- To form a loop this can be picked up by Feed dog.
Feed dog: Feed dogs are the critical component of a "drop feed" sewing machine. A set of feed dogs typically resembles two or three short, thin metal bars, crosscut with diagonal teeth, which move back and forth in slots in a sewing machine's needle plate. Their purpose is to pull ("feed") the fabric through the machine, in discrete steps, in-between stitches. This arrangement is called "drop feed" in reference to the way the dogs drop below the needle plate when returning for the next stroke. The feed dog is moved upward and forward through the slits of throat plate. Virtually all drop-feed sewing machines can vary their stitch length; this is typically controlled by a lever or dial on the front of the machine. They are usually also capable of pulling the fabric backwards, to form a back stitch.
Basic Functions:
- To move the fabric forward. -
- Movement I equal to the distance of one stitch length.
Presser foot: A presser foot is an attachment used with sewing machines to hold fabric flat as it is fed through the machine and stitched. Sewing machines have feed dogs in the bed of the machine to provide traction and move the fabric as it is fed through the machine, while the sewer provides extra support for the fabric by guiding it with one hand. A presser foot keeps the fabric flat so that it does not rise and fall with the needle and pucker as it is stitched. When especially thick work pieces are to be sewn, such as quilts, a specialized attachment called a walking foot is often used rather than a presser foot. Presser feet are typically spring-hinged to provide some flexibility as the work piece moves beneath it. Presser feet have two toes, one to hold the fabric down on either side of the needle.
Basic Functions:
- It holds the material down.
- Keeps the material under control during sewing.
Throat plate: A throat plat is the metal plate beneath a sewing machine's needle and presser foot. The throat plate has an opening for the needle to pass through as it stitches and an opening for the feed dogs to emerge from below and help move the fabric forward during sewing. The throat plate is usually marked with closely spaced, grooved lines to the right (and/or left) of the presser foot. Grooves serve as guidelines for seam allowances of varying width. Throat plates can be popped out when it's necessary to clean the area underneath, which tends to fill up with lint from the thread used. Some throat plates must be removed in order to access the machine's bobbin.
Fabric: Select size of needle based on fabric weight. The finer your fabric weight, the lower the needle size to use.
Fabric wise Needle Size
- Very Light weight 8 or 9
- Light weight 9, 10 or 11
- Medium weight 12 or 14
- Heavy weight 14 or 16
- Very Heavy weight 16 or 18
Sewablity:
- Not breaking when used for high speed sewing
- Thread must have sufficient surface
- Thread must have uniform diameter
- Must have high abrasion resistance
- Must facilitate the consistent formation of stitches.
Durability:
- Thread must have sufficient elasticity on seams during wearing
- Thread shrinkage should be minimum after washing and dry cleaning
- Thread has to maintain its original color after cleaning process
Pic of elements are given below:
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